The Camino de Santiago in winter: what changes and how to prepare

From November to March the Camino almost empties. You walk in silence, the bar owner knows your order by the second coffee and rooms cost less. In exchange you get less daylight, more rain and fewer open beds. With a good plan, it is one of the best ways to walk.

What changes compared with summer

Daylight. On 21 December Santiago gets about nine hours of day, and because Galicia runs on Madrid time, the sun doesn’t rise until close to 9 am. Stages of 25 or 30 km leave no margin: in winter, aim for 15 to 20 km.

Rain. Santiago is one of the wettest cities on the Iberian Peninsula: December brings an average of 261 mm (about 10 inches) spread over some 16 days (AEMET, 1981–2010). The cold is mild, with highs of 11–12 °C (52–54 °F) and lows of 4–5 °C (39–41 °F). Snow is rare in the city; in the mountains, it is not.

Beds. In small villages many guesthouses and rural houses close between November and Easter. The larger towns (Sarria, Melide, Arzúa, Tui, Pontevedra) have hotels open all year. The golden rule: phone ahead every evening to confirm the next night.

The mountain passes

• The Pyrenees. From 1 November to 31 March the Government of Navarre bans the Napoleon Route over the Lepoeder col, after years of rescues in fog and blizzards. The Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Roncesvalles stage goes via Valcarlos, next to the road, even when the sun is out. Check where to stay in Roncesvalles before you go.
• O Cebreiro. At around 1,300 m, this is the gateway to Galicia on the Camino Francés and the spot with the most snow and fog. If you climb the Villafranca del Bierzo to O Cebreiro stage, check the forecast the day before and book in O Cebreiro: there are few beds, and even fewer in winter.

Which route to choose in winter

Sarria to Santiago is the safe bet. It is 115 km in five stages, with no passes, services at every stage end and the Compostela on arrival. Each stage is explained in Sarria to Santiago in 5 days, and accommodation in where to stay in Sarria.

The Portuguese Way from Tui is the other good option: there is no mountain pass between Tui and Santiago and the towns along the way have services all year. See the Camino Portugués from Tui in 6 days.

If it is your first Camino, save the mountain and Meseta stages, with villages far apart, for spring.

What to pack

In winter, water weighs more than cold. The essentials:

• A waterproof, breathable jacket and a rain cover for the pack.
• Layers: a thermal top and a thin fleece work better than one heavy coat.
• Waterproof shoes, already broken in, and two pairs of wool socks.
• Gloves, a hat and a head torch for the first hours.
• Dry bags for your phone and your credential.

The rest of the list is in what to pack for the Camino.

A winter day, hour by hour

Set off once it is light, around 9 am. At 3.5 km an hour with stops, an 18 km stage gets you in before 3 pm, with plenty of light left to shower, dry your clothes and eat early. Always carry some food and water: in small hamlets the only bar may be shut that day. And when you book, ask whether the room is heated; after a day of rain, nothing is more welcome.

Christmas, New Year and the Holy Door

Arriving in Santiago at Christmas feels special, but note two dates. The Pilgrim’s Office closes on 25 December and 1 January; if you arrive on one of those days, you collect your Compostela at the Cathedral.

And this winter brings a one-off event: on the evening of 31 December 2026 the Holy Door opens and the Holy Year begins. The city will fill up around those dates, so book Santiago early. Everything that changes in 2027 is in our Holy Year 2027 guide.

Before you set off

See the season month by month in the best time to walk the Camino and pick your dates with the forecast in view. If you’d rather not phone village after village to find out what is open, we can organise it for you: Camino de Santiago tour from Sarria, with every night confirmed and your bag waiting at the next hotel.