Keep of Pambre castle in warm light near Palas de Rei, stage Portomarín – Palas de Rei

Photo: amaianos from Galicia, CC BY 2.0

Stage 30 / 33 · Camino Francés · Galicia

Portomarín to Palas de Rei

The stage from Portomarín to Palas de Rei is 25.1 km, about 7 h on foot, with 520 m of total ascent and 310 m of descent.

Distance25.1 km
Estimated time7 h
Elevation gain / loss+520 m / −310 m
DifficultyDemanding
Highest point725 m
Lowest point345 m
Villages with services8: Portomarín, Gonzar, Castromaior, Hospital da Cruz, Ventas de Narón, Ligonde, Eirexe, Palas de Rei
Longest stretch without services8.1 km
Updated

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Where to stay in Palas de Rei

You pay at the property.

Where to stay in Portomarín

See all places to stay in Portomarín (13)

Where to stay in Palas de Rei

See all places to stay in Palas de Rei (29)

Pilgrim hostels in Palas de Rei(2)

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Elevation profile

400 m600 m800 m ▲ 725 m PortomarínPalas de Rei

Official route and distance by the Xunta de Galicia; elevations from a digital terrain model.

Download the route for your GPS app (GPX)

Map

What you will see on the way

A climb through Gonzar, Castromaior (a pre-Roman hillfort excavated a step from the path) and Hospital da Cruz to the Sierra de Ligonde. It is 25.1 km with 520 m of climbing, almost all in the first 13 km up to the 725 m high point; from Gonzar the path runs alongside the road.

History of Palas de Rei

Palas de Rei is a town in Lugo on the Camino Francés that was already a stage end in the 12th-century Codex Calixtinus, where it appears as “Pallatium Regis”. Its municipality includes Pambre Castle, from the late 14th century, and the church of Vilar de Donas, linked to the Order of Santiago.

A royal-palace name, a castle that withstood a revolt and a soldier who sought forgiveness by caring for pilgrims.

What not to miss in Palas de Rei

  • Castelo de Pambre: medieval fortress of the Ulloa family
  • San Salvador de Vilar de Donas: Gothic paintings and tombs of Santiago knights
  • San Xiao do Camiño: hamlet of the penitent soldier legend

Origins and the Camino

The name comes from the Latin “Pallatium Regis”, the king’s palace; tradition links it to the Visigothic king Witiza, though there is no documentary proof.

In the Codex Calixtinus the penultimate day ends here and the last runs from Palas de Rei to Santiago. Nompar de Caumont (1417) and Arnold von Harff (1496) also mention it.

Anecdotes, curiosities and legends

Around 1375 Gonzalo Ozores de Ulloa built Pambre Castle, one of the few that withstood the Irmandiño revolt of 1467. Legend says the mouros, Galicia’s mythical underground folk, built it in a single night.

Legend tells that Xiao, a soldier, killed his parents by mistake. Repentant, he cared for pilgrims with his wife until an angel brought him forgiveness; his name lives on in San Xiao do Camiño, just outside town.

Pilgrim tip

Vilar de Donas is a short detour before town; if you want to see inside, check first whether it is open.

Legends & tradition

  • Hórreos: granaries on stilts

    The hórreos beside the farmhouses stored maize so it could dry in the damp Atlantic climate. The flat slabs on top of the legs, called tornarratos, stopped rats and mice from climbing in.

    Source: gl.wikipedia.org

Villages along the way

VillagekmAltitudeServices
Portomarín · Places to stay 0350 m BarShopPharmacyATMDoctorWater fountain
Gonzar 8.1560 m BarWater fountain
Castromaior 9.4600 m Bar
Hospital da Cruz 11.8680 m Bar
Ventas de Narón 13.5720 m BarWater fountain
Ligonde 17.2640 m BarWater fountain
Eirexe 18.2630 m BarWater fountain
Palas de Rei · Places to stay 25.1565 m BarShopPharmacyATMDoctorWater fountain

© OpenStreetMap

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