Camino de Santiago as a couple: practical guide

Walking the Camino as a couple gives you something no other trip does: five or six days side by side, no screens in the way, talking about everything or nothing. It also tests things you never notice at home, like each other’s pace or mood at four in the afternoon. Get four decisions right before you leave and the trip falls into place.

Which section to walk

The Compostela only asks for the last 100 km on foot. The classic couple’s route is Sarria to Santiago in 5 days: 115 km of hamlets, oak woods and lively villages. It has two long days, Sarria – Portomarín (22 km) and Portomarín – Palas de Rei (25 km). If one of you walks less, split them and take six or seven days.

If you would rather avoid the crowds, the Portuguese Way from Tui covers 118 km in six stages, with riverside towns and good guesthouses. And if you have a spare day at the end, carry on to Cape Fisterra for sunset over the Atlantic.

Two paces, one Camino

Two people almost never walk at the same speed. One powers uphill, the other is better on the way down; one wants a break every hour, the other only at the village bar. Agree on three things:

• The slower walker sets the pace. If the faster one wants to stretch out, they go ahead and wait at the next bar.
• Fixed stops. A mid-morning coffee and lunch on arrival. Knowing when you will stop heads off half the arguments.
• Some time alone. An hour a day walking at your own speed does any couple good.

Before you leave, do two back-to-back days of 15 km together. That shows your real pace better than any plan.

Your room each night

This is where walking as a couple differs from walking alone. The public albergues in Galicia take no bookings and give out beds first come, first served, in bunks and shared dorms. As a couple, a private room is almost always worth it: you sleep together, you actually rest and nobody has to leave at six to get a bed.

When you request a booking, say whether you want a double bed or two singles. Small villages have few double rooms and they go first. Start with where to stay in Sarria and book every night before you set off, especially from May to September.

What it costs for two

Travelling as a couple makes the trip cheaper, because you pay for the room once. A double room on the Camino runs up to €80–90 a night, about €45 each. With breakfast, a set lunch and dinner, you are looking at up to about €85 per person per day. The Camino budget guide breaks down every item.

You can share the packing too: anything you both use, like the first-aid kit, charger or sun cream, goes in one bag. To walk light, luggage transfer moves your bags from one place to the next and you carry only what you need for the day.

Credential and Compostela

Each of you needs your own credential, stamped twice a day over the last 100 km. The Compostela is personal too: you both collect it at the Pilgrim’s Office, one each. The whole process is in the Compostela guide.

If you are planning to propose

It happens more than you would think. Praza do Obradoiro first thing in the morning, with the Cathedral façade behind you, is the favourite spot; for fewer people, Monte do Gozo, where the towers first come into view. Keep the ring in a zipped pocket, never in the bag that travels by van.

The last night

Book Santiago early and close to the old town: it is the night that fills up most and the one you will remember. If you can, stay two nights. Arrival day goes on the Cathedral and the Compostela; the next is for wandering the city without a pack. Choose from where to stay in Santiago.

Would you rather walk without worrying about bookings? Ask for a quote for your Camino as a couple: a double room every night, bags moved for you and stages at your pace.